In Ruben Deppes a small Shop in the Bielefelder old town, it takes time to find treasures. The 36-Year-old – striking Beard, eye-catching DFB-Retro-Sweater – stands in the midst of almost 40 fully-Packed square meters: a collection of old leather bags, training jackets, jumpers, Sweaters and sneakers, waiting for her second spring starts.

Except for a few customers strolling through the Store, and a young buyer, early 20’s, the happy thief about a Helene Fischer Tour Shirt, which he bought for a mate, it is for Deppe a more relaxed day. His main business, he says, do it anyway, if it is getting warmer and the festival season begins.

The Eco-friendly Image of once mass is suitable for

The range of his second hand store has grown with the customer base. More than 1500 parts of it, in the meantime, estimates Deppe. Most of it applies to regional flea markets, but he also has some goods in Commission. “The majority of customers is through platforms such as Ebay, more than in the past aware of what could be your clothes,” says Deppe. That’s why he had increased his prices in the past few years, an average of at least 20 to 30 percent, he estimates.

In cities such as Berlin or Hamburg, where it is often after a weight is settled, prices have risen in the same period, in part, by 50 percent or more. Because of the second hand lover has it in the East Westphalian province.

As a Deppe was opened in 2009, together with a business partner to the Store “Used”, was Secondhand in Bielefeld, a niche. Today, the self is no longer something rigid East Westphalia. Shop for worn womens fashion is around the corner, also an Oxfam Shop is within walking distance. Second hand shops have become an integral part of the shopping streets. The musty Eco-Image, the Second blew around a long time, has long given way to the mass suitability.

flea market on the Theresienwiese in Munich

Since the beginning of the Millennium, the turnover of retail trade of Antiques and second-hand products has grown to more than 2.5 billion Euro, as Figures from the Federal Statistical office show. The largest part is generated in the division, “retail sale of other second-hand goods”, which include also the business of used clothes. Alone in the year 2016 have been implemented in this area of 617 million euros.

the driver of these Numbers is – as with so many Trends – a young, well-educated group of buyers. She is wearing a Thrift store today not only to save, but rather as a fashion Statement: individually, style-conscious, and – of course – also a bit in a sustainable way.

Asking for second-hand buyers in the circle of acquaintances, especially women, prefer to buy on local flea markets or on the Internet, where providers such as dress, centrifugal, Momox, or Zadaa are flooding the market. The Finnish maker of Zadaa-App promise to connect not less than “the wardrobes of this world”.

Always collects in wardrobes for more clothes for less money

In German dress, in the meantime, a lot of things. Five new pieces of clothing to buy, the Germans, on average, per month, 60 a year. This is the result of a survey conducted by Greenpeace in the year 2015. Therefore, to be borne by the 5.2 billion items of clothing in German-in wardrobes, a good two billion only “rarely” or “almost never” – that is about 40 percent.

protests in front of Primark-Filiale in Stuttgart (2017)

Elsewhere in the Western world, it looks similar. In 2013, for example, bought the average American 64 new pieces of clothing per year. Today, six years later, however, this number is still significantly higher. Clothing has become a consumer product. Fast Fashion, the industry calls it.

The Name describes only too well, the timing of the fashion industry, which knows no breathers more: fashion cycles are shorter, clothes are always thrown to the market faster, the prices of Junk. We spent the beginning of the seventies approximately ten per cent of our total budget for clothes and shoes, today it is barely five percent. Discounters such as Primark and H&M make it possible. You have changed the fashion market and the price war long ago. Buy more, spend less. This is good for the wallet, but also for Conscience?

clothes as disposable goods

“We don’t treat clothes differently than a yogurt Cup, or a cereal box – so as a disposable commodity,” says Kirsten Brodde, 54, a textile expert from Greenpeace. Brodde has written several books on the subject. A guide for all those who have no desire for disposable fashion.

Brodde detects a counter-movement to Fast Fashion, want to give your book a voice. Also, the growing second-hand market is part of this movement. “This shows that people have to deal with more awareness, with clothing,” says Brodde.

Even if second-hand fashion is generally to become more expensive, see Brodde still plenty of opportunities in every price range, with worn fashion stock. She is even a step further – and clothing borrows.

What works well in cars, music, books or bikes for a long time, trying Brodde for two years, and also with clothes. “This is not only ecologically and fair, it also brings new Looks in the closet,” says Brodde. You lend your clothes to Stay Awhile. Also, providers such as Kleiderei or Myonbelle deliver a leihgarde robe home – tailored to the personal taste.

For Andreas Voget, 61, is any idea that makes the textile consumption a bit more sustainable, a good. Voget is the managing Director of the umbrella organisation fair rating e. V., an Association of non-profit used textile collectors, and he warns of the consequences of the textile flood. For the first time, a Million tons of textiles ended up in the last year in the containers. “The amount of textiles has increased significantly in recent years, at the same time has deteriorated your quality dramatically,” says Voget. Only about half of the textiles that leave for the second-hand market to exploit. The Rest will raw materials and swabs processed.

the rest of The second-hand clothing is for the countries that trade, a curse and a blessing at the same time. The worn clothing is offered in Germany, but also to Eastern Europe, the Middle East, and Africa sold. First States – such as the East African community (EAC) – made for an import ban of hand-me-down goods from Europe. This year it should go, but the enforcement is difficult.

clothes soon to be more expensive?

Voget in the large amount of deteriorating textiles a “Congestion of the whole chain of exploitation”. The recovery was made in this country, a “subsidy business,” because the cost for the Collection, sorting and Transport are on the rise. “If this trend continues, we will soon have to discuss who pays,” says Voget.

Nudie Jeans Shop with free repair offer in Göteborg

unlike, for instance, for electronics articles or in the recycling of Packaging, where at the time of purchase of the article, a levy for the recovery plan is defeated, the supply of used clothing free of charge in Germany. It worked well for a long time. The market regulated itself through the sale of old clothes itself, and with subsidised so the substandard textiles. However, if the Trend goes more in the direction of Fast Fashion, Voget, predicts this will also have consequences for the second hand industry: “The range of second-hand clothing is slimming, the prices for Neutextilien rise as a result of any levies,” says Voget. He therefore pleads for the purchase of more durable clothing.

Some companies have already converted. The jeans brand Nudie offers free repairs, as well as the outdoor brand Patagonia; The North Face sells even second hand goods. Also Tchibo is a pioneer here, for example, with a rental service for children’s clothing. At least parts of the industry seem to have understood. Voget welcomes the change of attitude, he himself is convinced of the second handler.

this will also remain The Reuben Deppe. Perhaps even more confident than before. With “Used” will he soon moved to larger premises in Bielefeld. Not more than 40, but 140 square meters. Not a One-man operation. “The demand is there,” says Deppe, “let’s see what goes on.”

Summary: is The market with second-hand clothing has grown since the beginning of the Millennium, extremely. Second-hand fashion has become socially acceptable, and now even for people with prallerem purse interesting. The growing quantities of textiles from poor quality the industry, in the recycling, however, on the sample.